Weaver Lexicon

Linder • Weaver > What We Do > Weaver Lexicon

Needles

A slender, pointed implement used for sewing, typically made of polished steel and having an eye at one end through which a length of thread is passed and held.

Primers and treatments

Primers and treatments are used to give new properties to yarns or fabrics, to correct their defects, or to give them the best aspect for sales.

Fabric weave

Way of interweaving warp and weft yarns (cloth, satin, twill, natté, taffeta, chevron)

Embroidery

The art or process of working ornamental designs upon cloth or other material with a needle and thread.

Lace

Lightweight fabrics in which we don’t differentiate warp or weft. Laces are made of a background and designs realized by interweaving (interlacing), winding, or braiding of yarns. They can be made with linen, cotton, silk, or rayon.

Finishing

Treatments made on unbleached fabrics (e. g. bleaching, dyeing, primers, impression) to increase their value.

Warp yarn and weft yarn

On a weaving loom, warp yarns are disposed in parallel to the selvedges. Weft yarn is a continuous yarn always perpendicular to warp yarns.

Silk

Silk is of animal origin. It is a caterpillar secretion, the most  common being the one of the mulberry-feeding silk-worm.

Hemp

Hemp is of plant origin. Textile fibers are located in the rod of an herbaceous plant that grows in our regions as well as in much warmer regions.

Cotton

Cotton is of plant origin. The fibers surround fruits’ seeds of a shrub that grows in warm and wet regions.

Jute

Jute is of plant origin. The fibers are located in a plant’s rod, which grows in India.

Linen

Linen is of plant origin. Textile fibers are located in an herbaceous plant’s rod. The rods of linen are picked, dried, seeded, and submitted to several treatments. In fact, in linen rod, the useful fibers are mixed with non-textile parts from which must be separated.

Metis

Fabric made of 50% linen and 50% cotton.

Organdy

Primer on cotton voile.

Textile dying

To dye a textile means to give it a different color from its natural one. Dyeing follows bleaching and may be done on yarns, fabrics, or spinnable paste.

Fabric

Area created by the intersection of yarns.

Viscose rayon and artificial fibre

We call viscose cellulose yarns and fibers obtained by viscose process.

Voile

A transparent, soft, and light sheer that is 100% polyester. Linder produces voile under the Plein Jour brand.

Weave

Special disposal on a weaving loom which allows an imitation of a Jacquard design.

Blackout

Room-darkening fabric.

Half curtains

Small net curtains that are hung in the window width.

Cornely

Simple embroidery typically made on Tergal/linen fabric.

Bonding

Bonding is a primer that strengthens warp yarns so they stand up better to weaving.  

Etamine

Taffeta with a rustic and natural aspect.

Yarn

A continuous strand of textile fibers fixed thanks to a twist.

Twisted yarn

Thrown yarns with one or several tips.  

Texturing yarns

Texturing is a process of imparting crimp, loops, or other modifications to continuous yarns.

Throwing

When yarns arrive from the spinning mill, they are without any twist. Throwing gives a twist to one or more yarns.

Tie-in

A process of tying each of a new beam to its corresponding end of the old beam when mass producing the same fabric.

Organza

A thin, stiff fabric woven on a 20-denier warp.

Warping

The process of transfer the warp yarn from the single yarn packages to an even sheet of yarn representing hundreds of ends and then wound onto a warp beam.

Piquage du peigne

Opération qui consiste à passer les fils préalablement rentrés dans les lisses, individuellement ou par groupe (2, 3, 4, ...fils) entre les dents du peigne.

Polyester

Polyester yarns and fibers have been in the United Kingdom since 1950 and sold under Terylene name, and in the US under the brand Dacron. In France, polyester is sold under the Tergal name.

Pencil pleat

The length of the curtain rod is necessary to make a pencil-pleated panel curtain.

Weaving

Gathering on a weaving machine of the two parts of a fabric: warp and weft.

Draw-in

The process of drawing every warp yarn throught its dropper, head eyes, and reed dent.

Sable voile

Well-known classic type of voile with a fantasy weft.

Twist

To twist is to roll in spiral several stalks of one or more yarns. It’s usually indicated as turns per mtr and the sense of twist.

Transfer or sublimation

A paper is printed first and then the design on the paper gets transferred onto the fabric using a high temperature. This is sublimation process.