Weaver Lexicon
Needles
A slender, pointed implement used for sewing, typically made of polished steel and having an eye at one end through which a length of thread is passed and held.
Primers and treatments
Primers and treatments are used to give new properties to yarns or fabrics, to correct their defects, or to give them the best aspect for sales.
Fabric weave
Way of interweaving warp and weft yarns (cloth, satin, twill, natté, taffeta, chevron)
Embroidery
The art or process of working ornamental designs upon cloth or other material with a needle and thread.
Lace
Lightweight fabrics in which we don’t differentiate warp or weft. Laces are made of a background and designs realized by interweaving (interlacing), winding, or braiding of yarns. They can be made with linen, cotton, silk, or rayon.
Finishing
Treatments made on unbleached fabrics (e. g. bleaching, dyeing, primers, impression) to increase their value.
Warp yarn and weft yarn
On a weaving loom, warp yarns are disposed in parallel to the selvedges. Weft yarn is a continuous yarn always perpendicular to warp yarns.
Silk
Silk is of animal origin. It is a caterpillar secretion, the most common being the one of the mulberry-feeding silk-worm.
Hemp
Hemp is of plant origin. Textile fibers are located in the rod of an herbaceous plant that grows in our regions as well as in much warmer regions.
Cotton
Cotton is of plant origin. The fibers surround fruits’ seeds of a shrub that grows in warm and wet regions.
Jute
Jute is of plant origin. The fibers are located in a plant’s rod, which grows in India.
Linen
Linen is of plant origin. Textile fibers are located in an herbaceous plant’s rod. The rods of linen are picked, dried, seeded, and submitted to several treatments. In fact, in linen rod, the useful fibers are mixed with non-textile parts from which must be separated.
Metis
Fabric made of 50% linen and 50% cotton.
Organdy
Primer on cotton voile.
Textile dying
To dye a textile means to give it a different color from its natural one. Dyeing follows bleaching and may be done on yarns, fabrics, or spinnable paste.
Fabric
Area created by the intersection of yarns.
Viscose rayon and artificial fibre
We call viscose cellulose yarns and fibers obtained by viscose process.
Voile
A transparent, soft, and light sheer that is 100% polyester. Linder produces voile under the Plein Jour brand.
Weave
Special disposal on a weaving loom which allows an imitation of a Jacquard design.
Blackout
Room-darkening fabric.
Half curtains
Small net curtains that are hung in the window width.
Cornely
Simple embroidery typically made on Tergal/linen fabric.
Bonding
Bonding is a primer that strengthens warp yarns so they stand up better to weaving.
Etamine
Taffeta with a rustic and natural aspect.
Yarn
A continuous strand of textile fibers fixed thanks to a twist.
Twisted yarn
Thrown yarns with one or several tips.
Texturing yarns
Texturing is a process of imparting crimp, loops, or other modifications to continuous yarns.
Throwing
When yarns arrive from the spinning mill, they are without any twist. Throwing gives a twist to one or more yarns.
Tie-in
A process of tying each of a new beam to its corresponding end of the old beam when mass producing the same fabric.
Organza
A thin, stiff fabric woven on a 20-denier warp.
Warping
The process of transfer the warp yarn from the single yarn packages to an even sheet of yarn representing hundreds of ends and then wound onto a warp beam.
Piquage du peigne
Opération qui consiste à passer les fils préalablement rentrés dans les lisses, individuellement ou par groupe (2, 3, 4, ...fils) entre les dents du peigne.
Polyester
Polyester yarns and fibers have been in the United Kingdom since 1950 and sold under Terylene name, and in the US under the brand Dacron. In France, polyester is sold under the Tergal name.
Pencil pleat
The length of the curtain rod is necessary to make a pencil-pleated panel curtain.
Weaving
Gathering on a weaving machine of the two parts of a fabric: warp and weft.
Draw-in
The process of drawing every warp yarn throught its dropper, head eyes, and reed dent.
Sable voile
Well-known classic type of voile with a fantasy weft.
Twist
To twist is to roll in spiral several stalks of one or more yarns. It’s usually indicated as turns per mtr and the sense of twist.
Transfer or sublimation
A paper is printed first and then the design on the paper gets transferred onto the fabric using a high temperature. This is sublimation process.